KJ
71 Online Review
The
Korean Way of Tea: An Introductory Guide
by Brother Anthony of Taizé and Hong Kyeong-Hee
Seoul, Seoul Selection 2007
Reviewed by Lauren W. Deutsch
“Too
fussy,” observed a member of the audience watching the formal
presentation of the “Korean Tea Ceremony” at the consulate’s
culture center in Los Angeles. The demonstration by members of the local
Korean tea culture group was consciously but gracefully paced and helpfully
narrated by a young woman dressed in hanbok, traditional jacket
and skirt. A grass mat was spread in front of a display of a “woman’s
room” of a literati class family, a landscape painted
screen stood to one side and gayagum music filled the air.
Having studied chanoyu, Japanese tea ceremony, for 25 years,
I can attest that the preparation effort seemed anything but “fussy”.
In fact, it looked particularly natural in its economical movements
and resulted in a few sips of yellowish liquid that tasted warm and
soft on the palate. Not fussy at all.
Korea has had a “Way” of tea but it hasn’t been widely
seen, much less described or studied by foreigners. This new guidebook
full of color illustrations, created by Brother Anthony and Hong Kyeong-Hee
and published by Seoul Selection (available online),
is a welcome edition to one’s tea or Korean culture library. 
The book is a labor of love produced by two simple, cultured gentlemen
whose relationship has been refreshed again and again over cups of tea.
Having enjoyed tea with them in Mr. Hong’s Anguk-dong residence,
I could imagine these two literati having met centuries ago, the former
a renowned translator of Korean poetry and literature into English and
the latter an unassuming scholar / teacher of letters.
Beautifully illustrated and filled with poetry, history, science and
anecdotal material, the book itself feels like the un-fussy nature that
one associates today with enjoying a cup of carefully prepared Camelia
Sinensis, seated on a floor pillow or low stool in one of the many
tiny, rustic tea rooms crammed one upon and next to another in Seoul’s
Insadong antique district.
The contents of the book constitute a refined and expanded text developed
from the “blog” presented by Brother Anthony 
on
his website.
The site contains an index, links to his articles in the Korea Times
and other tea sites.) A “congratulatory” message from tea
master Chae Won-Hwa, founder and head of the Panyaro Institute for the
Promotion of the Korean Way of Tea, certifies the authenticity of sentiment
and literal meaning of their words.
During Korea’s 19th – 20th century Colonial Period, the
Japanese were happy to lay claim to Korea’s tea resources as they
did the potters who were taken back to Japan to support their burgeoning
Japanese tea culture in the 16th century. While some Koreans pride their
culture as lacking the “fuss” usually associated with Japanese
arts, this does not mean it lacks form or focus. From the growing of
tea leaves and their processing for packing, to the preparation of self
and leaf into beverage, Zen Buddhist philosophy – Seon Cha
– as well as the courtly arts may be infused in every leaf and
gesture.
Panyaro
(“'Dew of Enlightening Wisdom”) green tea is meticulously
grown on and hand-processed at a plantation near Bomgmyeong-san mountain
in the southern area of Jiri-san. Chae Won-Hwa has formalized a rltual
for preparation also, interpreting the manner taught to by her teacher,
the Venerable Hyodang, head monk of Dasol-sa temple near Jinju. This
temple is still a source of fine hand-made tea, and wild tea plants
may be found along the mountain slopes.
Tea, like Korean cuisine in general, was also enjoyed in a courtly manner
by ladies and gentlemen who attended the royalty, so naturally, there
were appropriate embellishments, such as in the utensils and manner
of offering the beverage to their Esteemed Majesties. Such external
“fuss” may have been implied in the Los Angeles demonstration
critique but the preparatory manner was clearly well-intentioned.
I
have enjoyed very informal tea with Buddhist monks in Korea. A cloth-covered
tray with small cups lined up next to a stack of small wooden coasters,
a horizontal handled tea brewing pot, two lipped bowls for cooling,
a source of hot water and a box of tea and good will is all that is
necessary. We joked and he poured. Laugh. Pour.
It has taken Korean over 50 years to reconstruct and appreciate its
own unique Way of Tea. The vast majority of Koreans would rather drink
small paper cups of instant coffee prepared with creamer and lots of
sugar and to sit at Starbucks or a French pastry cafe. Now, through
the efforts of such men and women of tea, Korea’s cultural traditions
are finding their way to a renaissance and broad interpretation.
While we’re waiting, we can enjoy a cup of tea. Hold the “fuss”.
Photo
Credit: Lauren W. Deutsch
Copyright
held by the author
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